Friday, August 31, 2012

Moving on Sale, VintageCorepatterns.etsy.com

It took me a while to figure out how to post on my blog. It has been about a year. I took off for a while to get some time to myself, balance and focus on my craft (crafts).

This winter, I made a ton of dresses, and other great little functional items, that I barely shared with the world. I really enjoyed wearing them though. I started another blog, VintageCore.com. I really did not focus on that blog wither. I love the creating part, but I do not always have the time and energy to talk about it, make it sound interesting, and take photos as I do it.

It is simply time for me to try new things. I need to bloom in my art and sewing, and I need to make space in my house for my supplies, so I am parting with my entire stock of patterns. Buy more patterns, save more money.

So, here is my plan, I am basically selling them as cheap as I possibly can until I have enough product to open my handmade store. I am also hoping to buy more fabrics and supplies for my creations.  I hope you enjoy the patterns I am offering.

If you want up to the minute updates so you can see the patterns as they are added to the shop, subscribe to our RSS Feed here,Subscribe RSS Feed, For up to date Vintage Core Pattern Store Additions, grab your favorite patterns as we add them and take full advantage of our Moving On Sale!

http://www.etsy.com/shop/VintageCorePatterns?ref=si_shop


Friday, September 2, 2011

Hurricane's have a way of turning our lives upside down.

My Hurricane Irene Experience.
 I have been living right on the water for a little over 4 years. My neighbors across the street is a lake, and we sit a street west of the ocean.  Asbury Park was once a popular family summer resort  and it has a very rich history.  I live here all round, however Deal Lake and Asbury Park are two great places to visit in the summer. It is a fun place to be all year round if you ask me. New Jersey is a small state, and I have lived in its most populated areas and least.. Asbury Park seemed perfect for me. In a nutshell, this place is on the rise. It was once beat down, but with love and hard work it is being rebuilt, and perhaps reinvented into a wonderful city with character and flavor.  I am proud to live in this city. I relate to its character.

Well, like I said, we have lived here for 4 years and I loved it. Two weeks ago, I was so excited, I was getting my sewing room together and  noticed some water coming down the wall. We noticed that there was all this water coming from the gutter and was basically squirting all of the water from the room right into the window well right over my sewing machine. YAY! Well, Joe and I went out and quickly fixed the problem in order to stop the immediate problem..Wait, I forgot, there was another leak that was on the back porch roof, and that was like having rain indoors. In the meantime, it stopped raining we get this HUGE hurricane scare. Which is a whole other story.

With all of that in mind, I have to evacuate. The repairs were being done the same day I had to leave with my family.. So, the entire time, I am thinking, these repairs will never hold up! My whole house is going to flood... So, I proceed to pack every single pattern I own into waterproof bins. And since I was thinking at that point my home is going to look like something I saw on TV from Hurricane Katrina, I made a sad attempt to save more of our valuables by placing them in the highest points of my house.. in the bathtub! LOL.

The media scared the heck out of me. They were using words like catastrophic, (lol) hurricane, rain (lol), and lifetime event.  By the time my neighborhood was evacuated, I had my entire family and every pattern I own in the next state.

To my surprise the repairs lasted and will hopefully hold up long term. I was so lucky to get home to a very dry home with no electric. The electric being off was nothing.  It just did not seem to bother me.  I was sort of happy to have an excuse to not have to fully reorganize the house we tore through when we evacuated. The lake was overflowing when we arrived. There was also a huge rainbow along the horizon.  My neighbors across the lake were not so lucky, as the other side of the lake was flooded. But on a brighter side, those are just summer homes and they are not occupied all year.

As you may know, I was starting to downgrade my patterns anyway..  I decided to really get rid of them, and change my entire format of my store.  So, stay tuned. Hopefully, selling these patterns will get the fabric I so desperately need... and my goal is to have more focus on the creative aspect of sewing.

In the meantime, I would like to share the recent week with you with my photos! I also had time without TV to arrange my living-room. I love it.
September 2, 2011


http://vintagecorepatterns.com/

Sunday, August 21, 2011

A Lime Green Dress Handmade for The Queen of Lime Green.

 Such a process. No wonder why I hid from this and was so unsure for so long. I was using a machine that kept eating my projects... I liked my old Kenmore, but it no longer could do it and I no longer wanted to do "it" with it anymore...

I am not sure I like the whole fabric of the dress, and would really love it in a solid or darker color.. Hhmm did someone say hand dying? That would not be too bad, if I had experience with not ruining a cute but brightly colored dress.  It is summer, so I am going to run with it! Plus, I am a Jersey Girl.. What's Wrong wit' some cuhlah??

I finally am at a point where I do not have to lug Esther upstairs anymore.  Can you figure out why she is named Esther?   She's the buddy who is always willing to try on whatever I need her to try on.

I am working little by little on the studio space. My sewing area is coming together with the Pink Curtain along the shabby built in.. I made a removable Matching Ironing Cover for the Ironing Area. I am making matching fabric colored cork boards for the walls in the sewing area of the studio.  This will hopefully pull the room together so I can take some wider shots and really show you the space. It is amazing how matching fabrics, even with big flowers, it can tie a room together and give it some flow!

These Cork Boards will be a perfect way for me to visualize and sketch some projects, and plan.. With my fabric on shelves, I tend to get ideas and drop them.  I am actually have a place where I can visually  the next few projects for the early to mid fall season. I am getting it together little by little.

When it comes to this room, I am going to say it is a lot of work.. A room to work in needs to be worked in to really be put together and flow.  The way it is recently getting put together is focused work, and doing it efficiently. 

There are little things like some unruly Wires are just plain old unsightly no matter what way you look at it, in a photo or real life. It is a few small things that I am still sort of putting together so I am not showing you a picture of my cutting area and table with fabric on it....


As you can see I momentarily lost my mind with the burgandy trim.  There is a lot of this plummy toned color in the fabric - there just is not enough of it to bring it together.  All this and I think I want to leave it plain, with a touch of the bias trim.
 It is so nice to not have to lug the form up that form up that stair case to show you a dress! I am pretty happy with this space.  This is such a Huge milestone, since moving in here last summer - I never thought I would pull this together. Happy Days are here, and this fall and winter I am looking foward to lots of sewing  in hibernation! ( I just cannot put on weight like I did this year, It took all summer to loose that junk)




http://vintagecorepatterns.com/

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Wheat Foccacia

When I announced that I was making changes this spring, I was very serious. I was not happy with the last year.  I thought I could have sewn more and maybe been more productive. So, I have been really 'cleaning house' and purging anything I see as negative in my life.

Diet is one of them. My body is a machine, I can only expect to get out of it what I am putting into it. With a husband with Crohn's disease, I have been more or less just eating what he should eat. But, he constantly eats whatever he wants anyway. So, I am eatting what is good for me, and apparently so is Joe! LOL! 

Last night, I made a Vegan Foccacia. I made the dough with Wheat Flour and a little bit of bleached flour. It is really nice to eat at night and get energy from food instead of wanting to lay down and digest. We have been eating soy and drinking soy and rice milk. Which works out so much better since Joe is not supposed to eat Dairy anyway.

So, in the interim, the entire household is following my lead and we are all getting healthy!

The dough rose perfectly this week. I purchased it from a large market. I usually do all of my shopping from the small local markets, but, I needed to go to the big supermarket for the yeast because I bought some last week and it was not rising well, which only makes me assume that it was not that fresh. Last night when I pulled the Foccacia out of the oven it was perfect. We were so enticed and hungry from the aroma, I forgot to take the photo of the finished product.

The crust had the perfect amount of light, fluffiness, and crustiness. The perfect Vegan Pizza!

Vegan Grated Cheese
Spinach
Sun Dried Tomatoes
Wheat Four
Flour
Yeast
Water
Corn Meal
Ground Walnuts
Olive Oil

Friday, March 11, 2011

White on White Spring Inspired

In regards to the previous post. I am posting these lovely items I am currently working on.
The first is a Poly Jiffy Dress. When working with a Large Patterned Fabric, I find that a larger print does best on a simple garment. I love this dress, and the simple pattern even more! I am omitting the Pockets because I am noticing the fabric does not drape and lay as nicely as it should. But overall, I love the pattern, and the dress will be a keeper for a quick easy casual mini to run to the market in a pair of strappy brown flats or ballet slippers and a brown belt! I also altered the neckline because I am not a big fan of large ruffles around my neck and face. Being a petite woman, I believe the smaller frills are more flattering.

The same goes for my lightweight cotton Pin Tucked Blouse, I am giving readers a peek at, the smaller the neck frills, the better for me. Nevertheless, I was inspired by a blouse that was big on ruffles, the keyword is inspired. I used the inspiration of the cotton pieces I saw, loved, and wanted for myself... and made them mine! That is what makes sewing and vintage sewing patterns so wonderful. I get to create a wardrobe that is as unique and one of a kind as I am! 




 
Simple Large Pattern Fabric -VS- Detailed Dress with Loud Patterned Fabric


Great dress, perhaps on my body I would say no to the pattern and yes to this style in a solid!

Monday, March 7, 2011

Around the House. In the Bath

Sewing, Painting, and doing what I Should do!

I have been at it, doing what I love, and messing with my home..The dresses I have planned took a back burner for the afternoon. I have been meaning to hit the upstairs bathroom for a while..

To decorate this room was a challenge because it has the most wonderful 1940's era tiles, but.. in the oddest shade of melon pink.  When I enter that room, I am stumped, thinking "what color goes in here?"..but for the longest time my mind went blank.

I am no longer in a hurry. I want my home to be filled with things that reflect the woman I am and where I am headed. I hunt for pieces that will be timeless and not just trendy space fillers. I have taken on the attitude that I will know something is just right when I find it.. And so far, things are coming along slowly, but I have found that I have had to purge a lot less, and fussing is at a minimal. 

Last weekend, on my treasure hunt, I came across something that was oddly irresistible, a vintage floral print in its original frame. Because the frame was missing its inlay, I got this find cheap! So, this is where my inspiration began...  Being a beach house it is easy to go in a few directions, Nautical, beachy, but being the whimsy lady I am.. I consider myself a true 'vintage sweetheart', I am attracted to almost all styles, eras, and things that seem beautiful and I mix them. I did commit to keeping the house on the rather minimalist side with a lot of pops of mid-century modern flavor.  It seems to be working, and I love the simplicity = especially when it is time to clean the place. I have purged my collection of nick knacks and have begun to search for larger more substantial pieces. No more time to mess with the small stuff, leaving the smaller details to my creations and sewing. In other words, I committed to a life more simple, and the only small stuff I want to sweat these days are little notions, trims, and pattern pieces!

So, far, I am doing well! You may find a small surprise here and there.  I am known to keep a small keepsake nestled in a plant.  Or reflecting on my earlier post, a small jewel pinned discreetly on a curtain- since I am unable to wear them like I would like, I discovered another way to enjoy them. "Nothing to move and dust", has become my motto!

The orange pink bathroom with the stand up shower VS my creative decorative skills. Where in the world could I find things that I like to go in this oddly colored room? Would I be able to achieve this without having to demolish the room and re-tile it? A task that I cannot afford. Either way, that was the greatest charm of my home, the old 1940's bathrooms and great wood floors. It was the whole reason why I needed to be here, to be inspired by my space! Encountering a design challenge over tiles I am so affectionate about is sort of a funny twist!

I started with the print, sat it on my porch all week and thought about it.  It hit me! My mother gave me these adorable little charms of the Eiffel Tower, and it is all starting to add up in my head! The print, and a small piece where I loosely darned a sketch of the Eiffel Tower onto fabric FOUR YEARS back just kept coming to mind.  I am going to go French Shabby Chic! Yeah that's it! I will make something up if all else fails, that is what I do best any way! So, that is what I am doing. Making a style of my own!

This morning, I took some plain old tab curtains that needed a hem to look okay with this window, and I took this idea I saw someplace, I think Etsy and used it. I took plain acrylic paint and mixed it with some medium, and I took a few simple sayings that relate to the bathroom and translated them on Google from English to French! Viola!

" Take a calming long shower and you will smell like a flower. Wash your hair and take time to care.." Eaxh of the curtains phrases end appropriately with Love Myself..  I free-handed these sayings onto the curtains, hit the edges with a blind stitch and I was in business. I have a very cute, stylish looking pair of curtains. Wait, I was not done! I took a spray bottle and took the rest of the paint I was working with, watered it down and put it into a spray bottle - and sprayed! When I was finished I topped it off with a nice little chant of  " Ewww La La".. All I needed was the black beret and I really would have appeared to have lost my mind for this simple but perfect fix!

I tried my hardest to get my match book shade up and had some problems with it..so, that will wait until Joe comes home. Or the weekend.. He is going to be tired after working since 5 am!

I am not crazy about the distressed look I did on the frame with the sparkles, but the idea seemed rather cool in my head, this is a work in progress and needs some fine tuning. Overall, I think I like where this bathroom is going.  And with a few pieces of milk glass, Eiffel Tower Hand Towels that I plan to darn.. I think I may have a cute little theme that makes the room flow.

Then when this is all done, I will make my way over to the other bathroom - the tiny easy one, I will make some hand towels to go with the theme I started in there with a simple record I found online. It is actually a record from the late 50's that was cleverly printed onto card-stock - I guess you could play it... I decided that framing it was a much better idea! My husband likes it and all I had to do with that was dig into the Ephemera Supply and dig up a piece of sheet music, and that make shift matting idea worked great!





xoxoxo
VintageCore Maggie!

Monday, February 28, 2011

That is my Grandmother! I miss her, and along side her is my recent - long NEEDED sewing project. It is simple, but in my
daily life, nothing seems to be! I chose it for the quick gratification, and my responsibilities turned this little dress into a long three day, maybe four day project.

I chose to put one of my grandmothers embroideries onto it... and make this fun ruffled frock made from left over seersucker into a fun dress with a very young feel! Ruffle, Eyelet trim, Rick Rack, and Berry Cuteness! It is barely in one piece, but a simple 70's dress I will probably wear as a comfy tunic.

So, I decided that a snipet would be more enjoyable. And you can enjoy the whimsy dress when I am done.

With that, I was looking at my Grandmother's photo and realized how much she inspired me, even from heaven. 

I am so tired I am going to turn in.

Maggie
http://vintagecorepatterns.com/

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

My Measurement Chart

Getting much more done! The sewing room is getting done! Now I am going to list a few patterns
and I am going to show off the okay skills! Basic alterations to Sewing Patterns
Most of the corrections needed to bring patterns closer to individual body measurements can be done right on the pattern. 


I know this is sounds like pretty common stuff to the pro's but sometimes this can be forgotten. Or maybe the newbie needs a hand. We should teach every little thing we know and hand over even every little bit of basic knowledge because that is the knowledge that can really stump someone who has the thirst and potential, and if they are not handed the simple knowledge they need they can get discouraged..



VintageCorePatterns.com Presents to you an Easy Three-step method for making these basic Sewing Pattern Alterations. This method is used as the starting point for later construction of a fitting shell.

The first step is taking key figure measurements. Some of these are additional to the measurements taken to determine pattern size. For this procedure you will need

tape measure
some string to mark the waist
Perhaps you can enroll a friend to help


The second step is comparing your measurements with the pattern’s to find the places that need alteration. The final step is making the alterations.
This method assumes selection of blouse and dress patterns according to bust measurement, a basis that works well for most women. When it does, bust alterations will usually be simply a matter of re-positioning darts. If, however, the bust is disproportionately large in comparison with the other standard body measurements, or if bra cup size is a “C” or larger, you may find it easier to stay with the pattern size that accords with your other measurements and enlarge the bust area.  The bodice should fit satisfactorily in the back and chest/shoulder area. The high bust measurement is often a clue to situations where this choice is appropriate.

*Pants patterns should be selected by hip measurement and the waistline and length altered if necessary.
One thing to keep in mind when doing Pattern alterations IS the need to keep the design lines in- tact. For example, if you measure less than the pattern and have to alter, don’t take away too much or the Style could be lost. It is generally   better to allow yourself too much fabric than too a little, because it is easier to take in than it is to add on. You can also lose style lines by adding too much, particularly if a garment is intricately seamed. If you discover that you need a great many pattern alterations, it would seem sensible to question  the accuracy of the size you have chosen. Or Perhaps another size, or a comparable size in another figure type. will fit with fewer alterations.

 First Important Step:
Take Key Measurements
Careful and honest measuring is essential. For the most reliable results, stand naturally and wear your customary type of undergarments. If you recently took some of the measurements described below in the course of selecting your pattern size,

note them again (no need to re-measure ) You may want to record your measurements for future reference. If you do, don’t forget to check them every six months or so, or if you gain or lose weight, to see if there have been any significant changes.


I hope you all find this and the the little chart useful!
I sure do!

 
Two: Comparing body and pattern measurements
To decide when and where you need pattern alterations, you must compare your personal figure  measurements  with  the corresponding measurements on the pattern.
In some cases you will  measure the pattern itself; most of the time, as you will find like the many vintage patterns on Vintagecorepatterns.com, the relevant measurements will appear on the pattern envelope.
 This, combined with your measurements and an idea of the kind of fit that
you wish to achieve, will show you where to alter.  Remember that your measurements are not supposed to exactly match those of the paper pattern. No garment can or should fit as closely as the tape measure, for you need enough room in any garment to sit, walk, reach, and bend. The chart below gives the least amounts a pattern should measure over and above your figure in six crucial places. This extra amount is called wearing ease, which should be distinguished from design ease. Design ease is the designed-in fullness that will cause some styles to measure considerably larger, overall or in particular areas, than your figure plus the applicable minimums given in the chart. You cannot know how much design ease has been included in a pattern, but you will be sure of keeping it, and therefore of retaining the style lines of the garment, if you take care to include wearing ease in your alterations There are exceptions to the wearing ease estimates below: a pattern designed for stretchy knit will provide less wearing ease; strapless garments will also be given less; larger figures may need more than the suggested minimum for a truly comfortable fit. Fill in your own measurements on the chart and use them when altering the paper pattern When comparing your measurements With those on the back of the pattern envelope, make no allowance for wearing ease.
 

 
Two: Comparing body and pattern measurements
To decide when and where you need pattern alterations, you must compare your personal figure  measurements  with  the corresponding measurements on the pattern.
In some cases you will  measure the pattern itself; most of the time, as you will find like the many vintage patterns on Vintagecorepatterns.com, the relevant measurements will appear on the pattern envelope.
 This, combined with your measurements and an idea of the kind of fit that
you wish to achieve, will show you where to alter.  Remember that your measurements are not supposed to exactly match those of the paper pattern. No garment can or should fit as closely as the tape measure, for you need enough room in any garment to sit, walk, reach, and bend. The chart below gives the least amounts a pattern should measure over and above your figure in six crucial places. This extra amount is called wearing ease, which should be distinguished from design ease. Design ease is the designed-in fullness that will cause some styles to measure considerably larger, overall or in particular areas, than your figure plus the applicable minimums given in the chart. You cannot know how much design ease has been included in a pattern, but you will be sure of keeping it, and therefore of retaining the style lines of the garment, if you take care to include wearing ease in your alterations There are exceptions to the wearing ease estimates below: a pattern designed for stretchy knit will provide less wearing ease; strapless garments will also be given less; larger figures may need more than the suggested minimum for a truly comfortable fit. Fill in your own measurements on the chart and use them when altering the paper pattern When comparing your measurements With those on the back of the pattern envelope, make no allowance for wearing ease. 


This week I would like to sew rather than being on my computer, 

However, with that, I would like to use this opportunity to show readers how to apply some fitting and alteration rules to patterns. Eww this should be so fun! 




Print your own Measurement Chart  - Remember your best results are at 100%.








xoxoxo


maggie!










 





http://vintagecorepatterns.com/

Friday, January 14, 2011

Handmade Tshirts and Intellegent Art YOU CAN WEAR

Too Often when I step into a retail store and I am looking for a gift for a child or even an adult and I notice there are T-shirts for all ages with such senseless garb printed on them. I certainly cannot see myself at 35 walking around wearing a mass produced T shirt with a riduculous saying like "it is all about me".. No mall sayings across my chest, please! Like a tshirt with the word JUICY across my chest for a mere $100.00!
It is not really who I am, I am not JUICY nor do I aspire to be and I am beyond the days of wearing a billboard across my chest saying, " I love getting ripped off at the mall!".

I have been really eyeballing some T-shirts for gifts, mainly for my loved ones... I just hit another wonderful Etsy shop! This one had to be aired out! I can sew almost anything I really want, but, tshirts to me are sort of a waiste. I like to buy them, especially with a design on them. I discovered another wonderful shop,Wait, I mean to say SHOPS.. This is another Etsy shop that offers products who say who I am, down to earth, organic and real! They also send the message that I would like to send with a little gift to the ones I love.  Handmade, with love and care.. I love that!
I found that these thoughtful artisans stock includes a little bit of something for everyone, right down to the beloved family dog!There is something for everyone at WrenWillow at Etsy where there is a cuter lighter side for of the life of the T Shirt! They have really intelligent designs in their other shop, T shirts, Pins and other thoughtful gifts in their other shop, ArtHistory101, where I was able to find an inexpensive thoughtful gift for a wonderful person in my life! FOR 3.00!
Not only did I get a small trinket for a loved one! I was given a little bit of an edumication! I mean an art history education! That EDUMICATION THING WAS A JOKE! ( i know I am the notorious one for the typos).. So, even if you are just stopping by for an art history lesson, or in the market for a wonderfully designed T-shirt, this is a place I deem worth your time, and must "stop by"!!

ArtHistory101's shop


They have wonderful work and it is shop where you can buy something for yourself, your friends, and even the dog, and it will run you anywhere from 3 to 30 dollars!


Great on the wallet and thoughtfully designed items! Hand dyed and screen printed t's! Let me stop raving, you have brains and eyes, go shopping and see this for yourself!  Keep up the good work guys!
Maggie at http://vintagecorepatterns.com/

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Cannot leave you with that thought! Buzz Planet!

I will probably contemplate erasing that last post in about a week.. But, it is me this week!


 Soap so pretty and affordable that it is perfect to use, collect, and gift!

I have to talk about something I blogged about recently. BuzzPlanet!

I have to rave about this shop a little more. I decided to pick this sellers brain and talk about her creams and soap and I told her about my skin and issues with it.

I have to tell you, the woman who owns this shop is an amazing woman. For a few reasons. A mother of five boys, which to me is outrageous! You know this is a good woman to raise a bunch of boys! And a mother who with all that going on, has the time to make things, God Bless her!

She does not just make the soap and creams, she knows what every oil, mineral, and organic ingredient is used for! I am so amazed with her knowledge! I have recommend if you are a person who uses soap when you shower, this is the person to go to and buy it from. She is currently concocting my own blend for me which will cure in about 2 weeks, and I am dying to give you all the scoop on my purchase,  which I can guess is going to better than the wonderful experience I had just speaking to her.

I am so impressed with the wealth of knowledge she offered me about my own skin and what I should and should not use on it! It is important to me that my skin is moisturized and it gave me a great amount of relief and confidence that she is making soap and creams and really knows why she uses the ingredients. And it is not just because they smell pretty!

You Go GIRL!
http://vintagecorepatterns.com/

Friday, November 5, 2010

Installing Decorative Zippers

I slowly Dish Out the cool things I find with the things I find when I obtain my collection of patterns




I thought that this would video on how to add a colorful zipper to your pant leg seam would work great with this Decorative Zipper Pamphlet











Friday, October 15, 2010

Thursday, October 7, 2010

l o l a - Cactus Silk Tote Bag

l o l a - Cactus Silk Tote Bag

http://vintagecorepatterns.com/

http://ny-image0.etsy.com/il_fullxfull.176833964.jpg

l o l a - Cactus Silk Tote Bag

l o l a  - Cactus Silk Tote Bag

l o l a  - Cactus Silk Tote Bag l o l a  - Cactus Silk Tote Bag l o l a  - Cactus Silk Tote Bag l o l a  - Cactus Silk Tote Bag l o l a  - Cactus Silk Tote Bag

Description

Très chic handbag made of "Moroccan Silk" or "Cactus Fiber" [Sabre], colors goes from light brawn, dark brawn and purple, doubled with canvas fabric. Lined with durable Polyester. Is a molten update of a classic city carryall. Wear it with tailored separates and metallic heels for eye-catching chic.

Measurements:
Base is oval 9" x 6"
Top width of the compartment 18"
Height of the compartment 8,5"
Max width (middle) approx.13"

Closure
Bottle neck stretched opening 8" + button

Detachable idle pocket (11" x 9") dividing the the main compartment in two.

Total height 18"

Handmade with ❤

A lot like the 40s vogue, just bigger!

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Quick Reference for Cut-and-Spread Pattern Grading - Threads

Quick Reference for Cut-and-Spread Pattern Grading - Threads

Photo: Linda Boston
by Terry Horlamus
from Threads #101, pp. 66-70

To grade a pattern so it will fit different sizes, refer to the drawings and instructions below and the two charts that follow. For a general explanation of pattern grading, see my article Making Sense of Pattern Grading.

Making the cutThere are five basic pattern pieces: bodice front, bodice back, skirt or pants front, skirt or pants back, and sleeve. Each pattern piece has several vertical and horizontal cut lines, which correspond to measurements on the grading chart.


Cut-and-spread method
These drawings show where to cut a pattern so that it can be graded for both circumference (vertical cuts) and length (horizontal cuts). A few simple calculations determine how much to spread/overlap at each cut line.


These standard cut lines are placed in approximate locations where the body "grows" or "shrinks." Vertical cut lines are always parallel to CF or CB (or sleeve's grainline), and horizontal cut lines are perpendicular to CF or CB (or sleeve's grainline). A cut line may pass across a dart but shouldn't intersect a dart lengthwise (this changes size of dart, thereby altering garment's overall shape).

Making the grade
1. Establish overall grade (difference between pattern’s measurements and body measurements).

2. Divide overall grade by 4 to get allocated grade. This distributes overall grade among four parts of body or pattern (left and right front, and left and right back).

3. Divide allocated grade among the cut lines on the pattern piece (see drawings at left) by following cut line’s formula in grading chart on the facing page. Calculate it yourself, or use the precalculated amounts for commonly used grades.

4. Slash along cut lines and spread/overlap by the required amount along each cut line.

5. Blend gaps if pattern was spread; split difference if overlapped. Trace graded piece onto clean paper, and transfer grainline and notches.

Example:
Overall grade: 8 in.
Allocated grade: one-quarter of 8 in. = 2 in.
Formula for line 1 (one-quarter of allocated-grade): one-quarter of 2 in. = 1/2-in. spread

Garment size chartThis chart represents a consensus of pattern company and apparel manufacturer sizing. If you aren’t fitting a specific person, you can use it as a guide for grading up or down.

 Base
 size
 4  6  8  10  12  14  16  18  20
 Bust  32  33  34  35-1/2  37  38-1/2  40-1/2  42-1/2  44-1/2
 Waist  24  25  26  27-1/2  29  30-1/2  32-1/2   34-1/2  36-1/2
 Hip  34  35  36  37-1/2  39  40-1/2  42-1/2  44-1/2  46-1/2


Pattern grading chart
On this chart you’ll find the location of each cut line shown in the drawings, along with the amount to spread/overlap at each for a 1-in., 1 1/2-in., or 2-in. overall grade. In the formula column you’ll see the portion of the allocated grade (AG) distributed to each cut line.

 Cut line  Formula  Location Overall grade
(in inches)
      1 1-1/2 2
Bodice
front/back
         
 line 1/line 6  1/4 of AG  midpoint of neckline
to waist
 1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 2/line 7  1/4 of AG  shoulder seam to waist  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 3/line 8  1/2 of AG  lower armhole to waist  1/8  3/16  1/4
 line 4/line 9  1/4 of AG  CF/CB to armhole  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 5/line 10  1/4 of AG  CF/CB to side seam  1/16  3/32  1/8
Skirt
front/back
         
 line 11/line 16  1/4 of AG  waist to hem before dart  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 12/line 17  1/4 of AG  waist to hem before dart  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 13/line 18  1/2 of AG  waist to hem after dart  1/8  3/16  1/4
 line 14/line 19  1/2 of AG  CF/CB to side seam a
t hipline
 1/8  3/16  1/4
 line 15/line 20  1/2 of AG  CF/CB to side seam
at mid-thigh
 1/8  3/16  1/4
Sleeve          
 line 21  1/4 of AG  between seam and
front notch to hem
 1/16   3/32  1/8
 line 22  1/2 of AG  center line from top
of cap to hem
 1/8  3/16  1/4
 line 23  1/4 of AG  between seam and
back notch to hem
 1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 24  1/4 of AG  midway between biceps
and top
 1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 25  1/4 of AG  midway between biceps
and elbow
 1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 26  1/4 of AG  midway between elbow
and hem
 1/16  3/32  1/8
Pants
front/back
         
 line 27/line 33  1/4 of AG  same as line 11  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 28/line 34  1/4 of AG  same as line 12  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 29/line 35  1/2 of AG  same as line 13   1/8  3/16   1/4
 line 30/line 36  1/2 of AG  same as line 14   1/8  3/16   1/4
 line 31/line 37  1/2 of AG  same as line 15   1/8  3/16   1/4
 line 32  1/2 of AG  midpoint of front
crotch extension
 1/3  1/2  2/3
 line 38  1/2 of AG  midpoint of back
crotch extension 
  1/8  3/16   1/4


WOW simple

And the graphs totally confirmed I have more skills than I allow myself credit for!

Awesome grading resource THIS HAS worked every time

http://vintagecorepatterns.com/