Friday, October 15, 2010

Thursday, October 7, 2010

l o l a - Cactus Silk Tote Bag

l o l a - Cactus Silk Tote Bag

l o l a - Cactus Silk Tote Bag

l o l a  - Cactus Silk Tote Bag

l o l a  - Cactus Silk Tote Bag l o l a  - Cactus Silk Tote Bag l o l a  - Cactus Silk Tote Bag l o l a  - Cactus Silk Tote Bag l o l a  - Cactus Silk Tote Bag


Très chic handbag made of "Moroccan Silk" or "Cactus Fiber" [Sabre], colors goes from light brawn, dark brawn and purple, doubled with canvas fabric. Lined with durable Polyester. Is a molten update of a classic city carryall. Wear it with tailored separates and metallic heels for eye-catching chic.

Base is oval 9" x 6"
Top width of the compartment 18"
Height of the compartment 8,5"
Max width (middle) approx.13"

Bottle neck stretched opening 8" + button

Detachable idle pocket (11" x 9") dividing the the main compartment in two.

Total height 18"

Handmade with ❤

A lot like the 40s vogue, just bigger!

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Quick Reference for Cut-and-Spread Pattern Grading - Threads

Quick Reference for Cut-and-Spread Pattern Grading - Threads

Photo: Linda Boston
by Terry Horlamus
from Threads #101, pp. 66-70

To grade a pattern so it will fit different sizes, refer to the drawings and instructions below and the two charts that follow. For a general explanation of pattern grading, see my article Making Sense of Pattern Grading.

Making the cutThere are five basic pattern pieces: bodice front, bodice back, skirt or pants front, skirt or pants back, and sleeve. Each pattern piece has several vertical and horizontal cut lines, which correspond to measurements on the grading chart.

Cut-and-spread method
These drawings show where to cut a pattern so that it can be graded for both circumference (vertical cuts) and length (horizontal cuts). A few simple calculations determine how much to spread/overlap at each cut line.

These standard cut lines are placed in approximate locations where the body "grows" or "shrinks." Vertical cut lines are always parallel to CF or CB (or sleeve's grainline), and horizontal cut lines are perpendicular to CF or CB (or sleeve's grainline). A cut line may pass across a dart but shouldn't intersect a dart lengthwise (this changes size of dart, thereby altering garment's overall shape).

Making the grade
1. Establish overall grade (difference between pattern’s measurements and body measurements).

2. Divide overall grade by 4 to get allocated grade. This distributes overall grade among four parts of body or pattern (left and right front, and left and right back).

3. Divide allocated grade among the cut lines on the pattern piece (see drawings at left) by following cut line’s formula in grading chart on the facing page. Calculate it yourself, or use the precalculated amounts for commonly used grades.

4. Slash along cut lines and spread/overlap by the required amount along each cut line.

5. Blend gaps if pattern was spread; split difference if overlapped. Trace graded piece onto clean paper, and transfer grainline and notches.

Overall grade: 8 in.
Allocated grade: one-quarter of 8 in. = 2 in.
Formula for line 1 (one-quarter of allocated-grade): one-quarter of 2 in. = 1/2-in. spread

Garment size chartThis chart represents a consensus of pattern company and apparel manufacturer sizing. If you aren’t fitting a specific person, you can use it as a guide for grading up or down.

 4  6  8  10  12  14  16  18  20
 Bust  32  33  34  35-1/2  37  38-1/2  40-1/2  42-1/2  44-1/2
 Waist  24  25  26  27-1/2  29  30-1/2  32-1/2   34-1/2  36-1/2
 Hip  34  35  36  37-1/2  39  40-1/2  42-1/2  44-1/2  46-1/2

Pattern grading chart
On this chart you’ll find the location of each cut line shown in the drawings, along with the amount to spread/overlap at each for a 1-in., 1 1/2-in., or 2-in. overall grade. In the formula column you’ll see the portion of the allocated grade (AG) distributed to each cut line.

 Cut line  Formula  Location Overall grade
(in inches)
      1 1-1/2 2
 line 1/line 6  1/4 of AG  midpoint of neckline
to waist
 1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 2/line 7  1/4 of AG  shoulder seam to waist  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 3/line 8  1/2 of AG  lower armhole to waist  1/8  3/16  1/4
 line 4/line 9  1/4 of AG  CF/CB to armhole  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 5/line 10  1/4 of AG  CF/CB to side seam  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 11/line 16  1/4 of AG  waist to hem before dart  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 12/line 17  1/4 of AG  waist to hem before dart  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 13/line 18  1/2 of AG  waist to hem after dart  1/8  3/16  1/4
 line 14/line 19  1/2 of AG  CF/CB to side seam a
t hipline
 1/8  3/16  1/4
 line 15/line 20  1/2 of AG  CF/CB to side seam
at mid-thigh
 1/8  3/16  1/4
 line 21  1/4 of AG  between seam and
front notch to hem
 1/16   3/32  1/8
 line 22  1/2 of AG  center line from top
of cap to hem
 1/8  3/16  1/4
 line 23  1/4 of AG  between seam and
back notch to hem
 1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 24  1/4 of AG  midway between biceps
and top
 1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 25  1/4 of AG  midway between biceps
and elbow
 1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 26  1/4 of AG  midway between elbow
and hem
 1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 27/line 33  1/4 of AG  same as line 11  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 28/line 34  1/4 of AG  same as line 12  1/16  3/32  1/8
 line 29/line 35  1/2 of AG  same as line 13   1/8  3/16   1/4
 line 30/line 36  1/2 of AG  same as line 14   1/8  3/16   1/4
 line 31/line 37  1/2 of AG  same as line 15   1/8  3/16   1/4
 line 32  1/2 of AG  midpoint of front
crotch extension
 1/3  1/2  2/3
 line 38  1/2 of AG  midpoint of back
crotch extension 
  1/8  3/16   1/4

WOW simple

And the graphs totally confirmed I have more skills than I allow myself credit for!

Awesome grading resource THIS HAS worked every time

1980 Vogue Pattern Examples. I am feeling the 1980s more and more..

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Monday, October 4, 2010

Graphic From the Vogue Mag. Playing with Graphics

Too Much Computer! Did not do anything but locate buttons to the citrus jacket today.  HOWEVER, HUGE! 
See, slow methodical and not in a hurry found the buttons I knew I had to have in my vintage button collection..

Well, I messed around made this happen because I am going to do a bunch of 19 x 13 wide format prints for the office this week on the printer, EPSON, WIDE FORMAT.

It was a test run, and it really printed well!

Simplicity Pattern Girl, What Happened to her? Before, After, Then, Now...

Is she related?  Or is this the same girl ?  I think it is sort of fun when I find these similarities in my Vintage Pattern Envelopes. 
It looks like the same girl just grown up.  I remembered the older version, because I commented on the eyes in the illustration.  Well, if this is her.. What is she doing now.  (hehe) What happened in her life?

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Vintage inspiration: American Girl, 1928 > Fashion Photo Shoots > Blog

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Vogue Pattern Book 1969 October November Edition MOD & puffy sleeves 2202 chester wienberg

both are very easy vogue, 7675. 7659
A personal inspiration of where I am going. This is pattern book that worked on me the previous year. 
2202 chester wienberg

These are beautiful clothes! Vogue is the best when they made pattern books. 

Vintage Pattern Grading

 Altering Patterns is not Extremely Hard... It just should be done within a range of 2 sizes smaller or larger.  No more - that is my opinion.

There is a wonderful website, it has a spectacular tutorial.  I am just afraid that someone may assume that it can be done without looking into what it entails I do not want to tell my customers that they can take a bust 40 and magically make it into a 32.

I am not trying to discourage you- this is not an impossible task. But, I am not about to sell a pattern to you that is not your size just because I can if you are new to sewing and patterns.   I have altered patterns because I am petite.  I have also, wanted to take the pattern and crumble it up.

I did not sew for about 5 months because  my life was so busy.  When I finally did, that was what made me realize that this could be a problem for my customers, and I had to make this very clear.


If your pattern is simple and with a few pieces and are courageous, it's worth a try! But if you are involved with a 23 piece pattern, why not run out and buy the correct size? It can save you an ulcer.  Of course, you can always take grading lessons and you can do it yourself.

Grading is a technical and complicated skill.  It is also a learned skill. What is grading you may be asking? It is the process of increasing and decreasing a pattern size. (this is not to be confused with the sewing term - trimming seams in alternate layers)   A grader, must know how much, where and most importantly, how to make the multitude of small perhaps subtle changes in the pattern that are necessary to  make so they will all fit together and one size will fit as well as the next.

Remember, you are working with a vintage pattern, you may want to trace the pattern or pattern pieces out into a copy, in case you are thinking about the original as a collectible.

Rule of Thumb:  A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE IS A DANGEROUS THING! The average size to the changes from one size to the next  in a standard grade for a basic dress or top pattern which gives maximum increase of one and one half inches for each size.

The bust (chest) and or hip measurement may increase or decrease 1-2 inches for one size but the shoulder width only 1/8 of an inch.  Moreover, variations are not consistent from one size to the next. There is a greater difference between a size 12 and a 14, for example, than there is between a 10 and a 12. And so they sizes increase, the differences between them may be greater.

You cold go out and buy Vellum, and the other expensive supplies you can use to do this

But, pattern alternation has been achieved by women for many years - Housewives ordering patterns, having babies, then loosing weight and altering their dress patterns.  I have done this without anything more than my

You can use news paper, wrapping paper, any kind of large flat paper to trace out the large pattern pieces.

A large thick piece of Cardboard (if possible, if you have one, a large cutting board with guides for projects that is even better

felt tipped marker

tracking wheel

carbon paper

and a yard stick - I use drafting rulers and see through rulers and a french curve

masking tape

As you will see all the lines are drawn for grading purposes.  All of the others are going to be excluded so I do not confuse you.

I am also going to just show you on the front piece of my of the front to the pattern, the back piece is sectioned in the exact same way.

After you have your pattern traced and cut out onto your new pattern paper (paper, actual pattern paper, wrapping paper flipped over, etc.)

Start off by drawing all of your lines on the front and the back parallel to the lengthwise to the straight grain-line or lengthwise center fold; draw all horizontal lines, perpendicular.  Do the same on a straight sleeve as pictured in my graph.

However, on a tapered long sleeve the two lines, H &  I may have to taper toward each other at the lower edge in order to stay within the pattern outline.

Again,  remember I am only showing the one side.  The back is sectioned in the same exact way and it would only be more confusion to do it two times. The center vertical line on the sleeve (g) is spread apart the width indicated at the sleeve cap but it is tapered to nothing at the lower edge when a size is increased.

So, in a nut shell you are going to cut these lines and basically put this all back together like a puzzle and make it all fit.

To increase the pattern one size, cut along the drawn lines and spread your pattern apart, and tape over the paper strips over a new piece of paper to retrace the pattern.  Then you can cut it out into a brand new piece.

To decrease you will simply cut along your drawn lines, lap the edges and tape together,this will allow you to decrease these amounts.

Measure, cut, and spread, to increase or lap, to increase these amounts!



LINE A 1/8"

LINE B 1/6"

LINE C 3/16"



LINE D 1/8"

LINE E 1/8"

LINE F 1/8"



LINE G  1/8" to nothing (see my little chart)

VERTICAL LINES H & I     1/8" each 

VERTICAL LINES J,K, and L   1/8" each 

This is not as confusing as it sounds, and you will feel greatly accomplished as a seamstress when you are done, however, I just want to make it clear-

I mentioned the tracing wheel and the carbon paper, so you can mark the place of where the darts and seam line belong.



Shoulders usually increase 1/8" universally from size to size 


I am very small and I have had the problem of either making a junior pattern larger, or a larger pattern small.   

In order to make the most of  your tiny high fashion figure potential, you need pattern adjustment.

I think the best way is to start with an under arm dart.  

  1. Take a body measurement from center from the fullest point of the bosom.  Measure and mark X on the pattern on this point.  
  2. With your pencil and ruler, draw a line, through the center of the dart as shown in Figure B., bringing stitching lines of dart toward each other.   Pin broken line indicates original dimensions.  The revised dart is much more shallow and the excess fullness is removed at the at the bosom. On a dress with a without a waistline seam, a tiny vertical fold is formed below below waist from second line downward. Pin this fold, tapering to nothing below below waist.  Revise and straighten the shoulder lines.  

Bodice dart above waistline:  FOLLOW STEP ONE ABOVE then with your pencil and your ruler, draw a line through the center of dart to X.  Extend the line to the mid-shoulder.  Slash along the line.  Keep shoulder edges together as your turning point, lap these slashed edges of the pattern bringing stitching lines of dart toward each other and pin. Dart becomes much shallower at this point.  Straighten the shoulder lines.

I suggest the above alterations be done on something better than newspaper- I am going to suggest that if you are tiny or a larger woman it is well worth the investment to buy the correct supplies.  I would also suggest that altered muslin can be tried on to test the accuracy and the extent of the alteration needed and revised if necessary, while the delicate tissue may tear.  Then the altered muslin can be used as a guide to future alterations.

The dress with a side front seam is best altered in muslin, by pin fitting it and taking the excess bust fullness in at the seam. Mark your new seam-lines and use muslin in conjunction with your other pattern paper for cutting.  With this hands on advice, I am sure, you will find your clothing is well fitted and much nicer!